February 13, 2019

Recently many of you have written to ask, “Robert, how is it cooking with a two-burner cook top as your only culinary appliance? (Actually, no one has written to ask me this!) Well, I will be happy to tell you.

The first rule of foreign travel is the same as the first rule of life: “When given lemons, make lemonade!” That is, be adaptable. (You say you don’t wish to be adaptable? Then what in God’s name are you doing in a country, alone, where you do not speak the language? Go home, sailor!)

With respect to cooking, you have several alternatives. Alternative number one is: Don’t cook! For those on an unlimited budget this is an easy and obvious choice. (For those of you affiliated with Saint Martin’s University I hardly need to explain this option to you as you are no doubt very experienced working with an unlimited budget!)

There are other approaches to not cooking, however. There is, for example, cold or hot cereal. (As one character observed in a recent film whose title I forget: “You are one of the few people I have ever met who believes that a nutritious diet can be composed solely of food that is either tan or brown.”) The answer to this dilemma: salads! Add the Dagwood Special – sandwiches! – and you have three meals a day (cereal; sandwich; salad).

There are ways to cook – well, let us say “creatively” – on a two burner cook top. This brings us to rule number two of foreign travel: follow the example of the locals. Yes, that’s right: ask yourself, “What would someone from Slovenia cook?” (Do you actually believe that people have been living in the Balkans for thousands of years [nay, ten thousand plus years) and have not figured out how to survive here?)

We should now consider rule number three of foreign travel: just because the Slovenians (or the French, or the Russians) can do it, doesn’t mean you should try a particular option first. Recently I was taken to lunch by my host at the Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Science and Arts. I had an excellent Slovenian goulash with polenta and a side order of cheese dumplings. (Caution: I have not said that my dietary and culinary suggestions will necessarily be healthful and good for you!) Here is what is billed as an easy to follow means for preparing Slovenian goulash that you, too, can make at home:

Looks easy, doesn’t it?

Although Slovenian goulash can be prepared on a two burner cook top – and I may try the recipe soon – I have elected to start with krtzarska klobasa, pecen komprir (fried potatoes), and kislo zelje (sauerkraut).

Naturally the first thing you need to do is acquire local Slovenian ingredients. (What! There is no Slovenian food market in your neighborhood? I don’t know what to tell you.) Thus, I traipsed across (actually, under!) Dunajska Cesta to the Mercator grocery store, found the krtzarska klobasa (4 sizable linked sausages, 480 grams, for 3.49 euros) in the meat section; weighed out three, very small local potatoes (.10 euros, about 11.5 U.S. cents) from the produce section; and located a 1000 gram jar of kislo selje “tradicionalno kisano” (essentially, traditional style) for 2.19 euros. (Please note: you do not need to prepare a pound of sausages and a kilogram of sauerkraut plus three (small, admittedly) potatoes for one person!) Returning to my apartment, I did the following.

First, identify a Slovenian olive oil of your choice. Apparently the Slovenians like oils made from pumpkin seed as well.

https://www.google.com/search?q=photos+of+slovenian+olive+oil+bottles&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjk6ebXrLjgAhXLDuwKHUeEDLwQ7Al6BAgGECE&biw=960&bih=521#imgrc=WEqwk722SVUdOM:&spf=1550048524889

Take a saucepan and add some Slovenian olive oil. (I prefer Solatno olje; you can find it at the Mercator market on Dunajska Cesta, Ljubljana.)

Saucepan on my two burner stove with Slovenian olive oil added. (Oh, for God’s sake: sure, use Greek or Italian olive oil if you must!)

Next, take a cutting board and slice the potatoes thinly.

Local Slovenian potatoes, sliced. (Preferably sue a sharp knife; as I have not been supplied with a sharp knife I am reduced to using a serrated dinner knife. Also, if you can’t find local Slovenian potatoes, use any God-damn potato. Christ!)

Next, take one klobasa and slice it lengthways.

Slovenian potatoes, sliced, with krjzarska klobasa (about 120 grams) waiting to be sliced.

Add the potatoes to the oil in the saucepan and adjust burner to start browning the potatoes. After the potatoes start to brown, add the klobasa to brown.

Sliced Slovenian potatoes browning in Slovenian olive oil along with krtzarska klobasa.

In keeping with the principle to cook locally by using local products, select Slovenian condiments and a beverage to accompany your meal.

A jar of Slovenian gorcica (mustard). How do I know it is from Slovenia? It says so in the red heart: Slovenije! (Slovenian mustard is sort of a slightly more piquant dijon style)

Set the table and pour your beverage while waiting for the sliced potatoes and klobasa to fully brown on both sides.

Table for one. Wine pictured is a 2017 Merlot from Slovenia’s Vipava Valley, which I recommend. (The brand label consists of a large see-through “V” set artistically aslant to the right side with “Vipava 1894” lower,) The cost is about $ 2.65 per 750 ml bottle at the Mercator store on Dunajska Cesta. (I have had “two buck Chuck” from Trader Joe’s and this is not a “cheap” wine. Equivalent to an $ 8-9 bottle of decent red wine in the U.S.) A map of the Vipava Valley may be accessed from the link below. (The valley is essentially southwest of Ljubljana on a littoral plan between the capital and the Italian border.)

https://www.bing.com/maps?q=map+of+the+Vipava+Valley%2C+Slovenia&form=PREXEN&pc=EUPP_UE12&mkt=en-us&httpsmsn=1&refig=7f1d6333f7574097807d403456b80bcc&sp=-1&pq=map+of+the+vipava+valley%2C+slovenia&sc=1-34&qs=n&sk=&cvid=7f1d6333f7574097807d403456b80bcc

Enjoy a sip of red wine while potatoes and klobasa continue to brown at a low simmer (25-30 minutes, depending).

Sliced Slovenian potatoes and klobasa browning over low heat. Stir and turn potatoes and klobasa regularly to insure even browning on both sides.

When sliced potatoes and klobasa have browned on both sides and cooked for 25-30 minutes, add Slovenian kislo zelje (same as any sauerkraut found in a generic American food store). Continue to simmer over low heat until heated to taste.

Slovenian kislo zelje being heated with sliced potatoes and klobasa in a sauce pan.

When sauerkraut is evenly heated to taste, serve and enjoy a Slovenian home cooked meal prepared on a two burner cook top! (Not recommended for persons with certain dietary restrictions or otherwise finicky, overly sensitive tastes.)

Empty sauce pan just used to prepare Slovenian klobasa, komprir, and kilso zelje.

As always, thank you for joining me to experience with me my Fulbright adventure in Slovenia. Next: a report on what it is I am supposed to be doing here and what it is I have been doing with my colleagues at the Research Centre for the Slovenian Academy of Science and Arts and the Educational Research Institute, Ljubljana. Until next time, “Nasvidenje!” (“Goodbye, adieu, to you, and you, and you!”)(from the Sound of Music; all song lyrics copyrighted by someone).

February 10, 2019

Welcome back to my rambling and digressive account of my Fulbright experience in Slovenia. Today I will take you on a brief tour of the “river area” near the Center of Ljubljana. Other highlights I have promised you – such as a further discussion of the location of my residence in the city and the many amenities it offers – will just have to wait! Instead, we will proceed as if we are lost tourists – which, at least, I am – and discover something about touristy Ljubljana on one of the few early days since I’ve been here when it has not been rainy. The day was only partly sunny, however, and there are many photos I’ve taken where the scene or building is cast in shadow, in part because the streets are often very narrow, especially in the old town near the Center. However, be that as it may, here is your introduction to the Center and the area by the Ljubljanica River.

This is a photo of the building that dominates the north side of a small city Center park that is called Congress Square historically. It is not the site of the current parliament.

I am starting with photos that I took at Congress Square (Kongresni Trg; trg means “square”), a small city park near both the historic Center and the new Center. This area was my first introduction to the core that connects the old Center and new Center which are to the east and west of this park, respectively. I found this park first because I walked down Dunajska Cesta and followed the signs which say “Centro.” Dunajska Street empties into the fringe of this park and then changes its name as it continues as a roadway south through the city.

One of the old, beautiful buildings that surround the perimeter of Congress Square; this building is on the west side across the street that continues Dunajska Cesta further south. It is an 18th century church in Baroque style that is said to have an altar made from marble mined in Africa. (I have not been inside yet.)

Another of the buildings that fronts on Congress Square city park, this one on the northeast corner. Also visible (to the left), a part of a modern peace monument. Note the rather elongated shadows. It was not even mid-afternoon when this photo was taken but apparently the sun has a very low aspect in winter in Ljubljana.

There are a number of other beautiful buildings on this square, or just off it, including the home of the Ljubljana Philharmonic Orchestra, but the east and south sides of the square were bathed in deep shadow already and I decided not to take photos, saving that for another, sunnier day and a time earlier in the morning.

Congress Square is about two very short blocks off the Ljubljanica River, which is to the east of the park. There, Preseren Square, named after the 19th century Slovenian Romantic poet France Preseren (1800-49), Slovenia’s cultural hero, is the heart of the river area. It is at the center of a pedestrian zone on this side of the river. It’s most famous landmark is the “pink church,” the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation built between 1646 – 60. (Notably, too, however, there is a McDonald’s right nearby. No photo.)

The Church of the Annunciation, perhaps Ljubljana’s most photographed landmark.
Photo of same showing the Ljubljanica River. Note again the very dark shadows developing on the right side (east side) of the photo.

The Ljubljanica River anchors the old town area with pedestrian malls and limited passage streets (where a special card authorizing entry is needed to lift barricades or recess impressive metal pillars into the pavement) on both sides. One consequence is that Ljubljana’s old town area is a city of bridges. The most famous historic bridge is the Tomostovje, sometimes called the Three Bridges. It is really one bridge in a sense; the central bridge of the three has stood since 1842. It is located off Preseren Square, essentially right in front of the Church of the Annunciation. Here’s a photo, although not a good one as it does not show clearly that there really are three bridges in very close relation to one another. Also, the photo is bathed in shadow once again. Keep reading my blog and someday I will post a better photo of the Triple Bridge!

Tomostovje, or the Triple Bridge, (from the other side of the river). The Church of the Annunciation may be seen to the right.

Other photos of bridges over the Ljubljanica River in this area (of which there are many):

Modern bridge over the Ljubljanica River with beautiful older buildings in the background.
Photo of bridge over the Ljubljanica River with the ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanska Grad) high on Castle Hill looming above the scene in the background.

Another bridge, Ljubljana, Slovenia. Also, a church. (Haven’t been in this church yet either but hope to go soon. I love European churches.)

The Ljubljana Castle was originally built as a hilltop fortress in the 11th century and then considerably enhanced and expanded in the 12th century. It is now a complex of buildings and walls that achieved its present outline in the 15th century although most of the existing buildings date from the 16th and 17th centuries. It is a major tourist attraction in Ljubljana. A funicular has been built to ferry tourists up the very steep hill. Guided tours are available. Several restaurants are now part of the Castle area (said to be very good but expensive). I have not been to the Castle yet so you have a lot to look forward to when you can eventually read and view my trip there in an upcoming dispatch! Here’s a photo of the Castle taken from down by the river.

Photo of Ljubljana Castle, Slovenia.

That’s all for our tour of the west side of the river area in Ljubljana today. (Really now: how much more could you have taken anyway?) See you next time on Robert’s Fulbright Lecture Tour and Travel blog!

February 7, 2019

Welcome back to my Fulbright Award Travel and Lecture Tour Site. I hope you have been completing all the readings. The first exam will be next Friday!

As promised, today we will take a virtual tour of my studio apartment. Some of the photos may be a little dark because I took them on days that were rainy and/or cloudy. I will have some better photos to replace or compensate for any really poor ones in a week or so because the weather person is predicating a sunny day or two.

To reiterate the importance of the topic of housing for those living in foreign lands for those who missed my earlier discussion, you will necessarily spend a substantial amount of time in your home-away-from-home while on foreign assignment and if posted solo then you will likely spend a lot of that time alone. These considerations alone suggest that housing is an important topic. And while location is important, amenities may be even more important. First, the residence itself.

The entry hallway to my apartment. Please recall that Europe is home to the Fiat Mini 500, made famous by videos of young men picking them up and moving them from a parking space onto a sidewalk, Space is at a premium and there is no good reason on God’s green earth to waste hallway space! The walk space shown is about 24″ wide. The three side-by-side “closets” you see are actually all part of a single, wood armoire. The units contain, left to right, (1) hanging space plus a top shelf; (2) handing space plus a top shelf; and (3) top to bottom shelves, eight of them.

One view of the main living space:

Here you see the dining area with table and two chairs; a partial view of the kitchenette (but not too partial of a view since there is not that much more to see!); the settee, “bowl” chair, and magazine or cocktail table (single table must serve dual purpose); and a partial view of two identical chests of drawers that stand side by side at the end of the bed (not pictured). Also, the door to the balcony, heating/AC unit, and two windows.

A second view of the main living space:

Here you see the balance of the main living space, including a desk and desk chair (waste basket under the desk not shown) and the two identical chests of side-by-side drawers already referenced. Plus another three windows wrapped around the corner of my corner apartment plus a vague impression of the dreary day in the background.

Shown: the head of the double bed and door to the bathroom (open). At the foot of the bed, but not shown, are the two identical side-by-side wooden chests of drawers and a small, flat screen TV that sits atop one of them. (I have not had the TV work yet but perhaps only because the batteries in the hand-held are dead. I’ll get around to it; maybe.)

Two views of the bathroom:

Bathroom, View No. 1: The lavatory, shelf and mirror.
(No extra charge for the pithy commentary in each caption.)
Bathroom, View No. 2: shower stall with hand held shower head (left) and toilet (right).

Finally, two views of the kitchen area:

Kitchenette: Cabinets, sink, and two-burner cooktop (right) shown.
Kitchenette area: mini-refrigerator featured.

There you have it. I hope you have enjoyed today’s tour of the luxurious and opulent circumstances in which I live in Slovenia. In all seriousness, I find the accommodations satisfactory. Of course, small children would need to be kept in one of the larger drawers in either chest or in one of the units of the armoire (perhaps beneath the hanging clothes).

That’s all for today. Forthcoming: I visit the U.S. Embassy here in Ljubljana and try to retrieve a box of books I sent myself through the State Department’s “diplomatic pouch” and a handful of photos of the city Center area on this side of the river. I will also return to a discussion of the location of my building and its amenities at a later opportunity. Until then, arrivederci!, or whatever it is the Slovenians say. Thanks for joining me.

February 5, 2019

Welcome back to the continuing saga of my Fulbright experience in Slovenia.

As promised, I will describe my initial foray into the city of Ljubljana, the capital, on Friday, February 1, 2019 to find a copy of the New York Times International Edition (or other English language newspaper). My apartment, as I described earlier, is north of the city Center on Dunajska Cesta (Dunajska Street). I’ve learned that my graduate student housing building is located on the University of Ljubljana campus complex among other dormitories and with the Departments of Social Sciences and Economics each in their own buildings behind mine.

This is the University of Ljubljana Social Sciences Building.

And, while I am at it, here is a photo of the exterior of my residence building.

My residence building. I am on the top floor, far right corner as you look at the photo. (If things look a little gray, that is because it is Ljubljana in winter.)

Back to the main story. So, to put things in perspective, I am alone in a foreign city in a country whose language I do not speak. As of this past Friday I only know how to say “hello” in Slovenian: “Dobler dan!” What I would like to do – indeed, what I desperately need to do – is find an English language publication to absorb my attention and, at the same time, start to explore my immediate environment.

I start by asking the guard at the building reception desk where I might find an American or English newspaper. Both of the residence reception guards I have met speak English, one more fully approaching fluency than the other. The guard to whom I inquire says, “Yes, I understand. You want Washington Post!” He directs me to a news kiosk about 200 meters away across Dunajska Street (which is generally on the way to the Mercator grocery store).

At the kiosk I am met with Slovenian by a young man in his twenties whose mastery of English is sufficient to comprehend what I want. He says, “No” followed by “Center” and points me down Dunajska Street. I follow his guidance and start walking. Many blocks on Dunajska Street are very long, often equivalent to two more standard U.S. city blocks. Dunajska Street is a major city street and thus is intersected principally by other major streets until one gets close to the core and city Center. There is a news kiosk in about every other one of these long blocks, sometimes on one side of the street, sometimes on the opposite side. Somewhat needless to say, it is raining slightly and when it is not raining it is either misting or threatening to rain.

Having left my campus domain and the immediate vicinity of the Mercator store, cafes, and restaurants, I am encountering Ljubljana for the first time in daylight. The city is a blend of the medieval, structures from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, buildings from the pre- but mostly immediate post-WWII 20th century, and the modernistic. Here are a handful of photos taken on/from Dunajska Street.

Typical residential house (may be a duplex) found in certain parts of Ljubljana.
Modernistic office building located at major intersection on Dunajska Cesta.
Church located just off Dunajska Cesta, Ljubljana.
Side view of a distinctive modernist office building on Dunajska Street.
Building on the square that is part of the historic city Center. The street that passes in front of the building shown, but behind the monument somewhat closer in the foreground, has a different name but is essentially an extension of Dunajska Street here in the Center.

Now, after the brief architectural interlude, back to our main story. As I make my way down Dunajska Street I stop at each successive news kiosk to ask for the New York Times only to receive the very same cryptic message, “No.” “Go to Center,” with a directional gesture. After five or six stops at kiosks, I see two kiosks ahead of me, one on each side of the street. As I am on the right side of the street heading south to the Center I approach the kiosk on the right side first and receive the usual reply. I’m a little bit tired by now, having walked perhaps 1 1/2+ miles on concrete sidewalks, and consider just heading on to the Center. However, I pause and look over at the other kiosk, which seems perceptibly larger and a little busier. Moreover, it is set back from the curb in a broad expanse of thirty feet of concrete with some sort of small shopping complex behind it. It seems foolhardy not to simply walk across the street at a stoplight when I am this close. Here, when I present my query to the 70 year old kiosk mistress I am accosted with, “Yah. Englisher. Over there!” Her hand points to the end of a splayed row of perhaps 100 publications laid out on the metal shelf that folds down in front of all the kiosks. Since it is raining, the publications are covered by a very thick sheaf of plastic, which would be see-through except for its thickness and the water/water vapor clinging to it. At the far right end, under a two pound rock used to hold down the plastic, is one folded copy of the New York Times International Edition. (I particularly like the part about the low-tech, but highly functional, two pound rock and hope you enjoy that detail as well.) 3.40 euros and my quest is complete.

In addition to the copy of the New York Times what, if anything, was gained by this little exercise? Well, quite a bit. First, I gained the opportunity to start seeing the city that would be my home for the next four months. Second, I began to meet people, admittedly in a purely perfunctory and transactional way, but given the facts that I do not know anyone in Ljubljana and do not speak Slovenian, I was able to me people initially in a quite beneficial, cordial way. Third, both the Slovenians and I had the opportunity to confront each other over my quest for a New York Times and communicate as best we could. However modest their command of English, each kiosk clerk understood in general terms what I wanted and seemed happy to try and point me in the right direction. So there ends the story of my quest to find and purchase a copy of the New York Times, just short of the city Center. I can buy another copy there any time I wish, if I am willing to travel 1 1/2 – 2 miles to do so.

Join me again next time when I display photos of the inside of my studio apartment and other incomparable delights!

February 1, 2019

O2 n Thursday, January 31, 2019 I traveled from Milan, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia by Flixbus to take up my Fulbright appointment. Flixbus is a relatively recent addition to European travel I am told, a pan-European bus line that emphasizes new buses, quality service, and low prices. I can attest to all three. The cost for a ticket from Milan to Ljubljana was 32 euros (2 of those euros for buying it in person rather than online). Plane tickets from Milan to Ljubljana, one way, start at about $ 225 on deep discount and quickly run up to the $ 400 – 800 range. Depending on the route to Ljubljana, you get to see Brescia, Vicenza, Venezia, and Trieste, among others, but it does take 7 1/2 hours. Here is the Flixbus site:

https://globalflixbus.com

When I arrived, my host, Dr. Oto Luthar, the director of the Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts, picked me up at the Ljubljana terminal. He had made arrangements for me to have an apartment at a graduate student housing building. I am not quite sure whether the building is solely devoted to the postgraduate school affiliated with the Research Centre or part of the University of Ljubljana since the two institutions are very collaborative and intertwined. Slovenia is a very small country and interrelationships of this nature are very common.

Housing is a major topic for Fulbright grantees. There are essentially two models. Slovenia commonly provides government funds that will cover the cost of housing I am told. Still, in this instance, the Research Centre is providing me housing at no cost (the second model). My apartment is located north of the City Center and, thus, a bus ride (or very long walk) to the Research Centre.

The building I am in is six stories. I am on the 5th floor, room 584, but that is the top floor because Slovenia, like many European countries, counts the ground floor as “0”. The building is likely 25-30 years old but in very good condition. My apartment is a studio but a spacious one. It includes built-in, matching wood kitchen cabinetry, wood faced half-refrigerator, and wood armoire, as well as matching free-standing wood furniture that includes an office desk, chests of drawers, chairs and dining table, cocktail table, and bed. A heavy vinyl couch, vinyl “bowl” chair, and contemporary desk chair complete the furnishings. The kitchenette has a two burner stove top, no oven, no microwave, no coffee maker or toaster oven, and a bare minimum of dishes, pots, and utensils. 

My unit is a corner apartment so I have two, complete walls of windows over-looking a park-like setting for this and other buildings, principally other dormitories it would appear. The windows are set at waist height but are approximately 5′ square panes of glass set on marble window sills. The ceiling is about 10′ high (give or take) to accommodate these huge windows. (I have 5 1/2 of them plus a door to a wrap-around balcony. Only the 5th floor has balconies so the Slovenians certainly know how to treat visiting scholars!) It will be a very sunny apartment – if the sun ever shines. 

The tiled bathroom has the usual European style fixtures (absent a bidet) with a sliding glass shower enclosure (no bath) about 32″ square with hand-held shower head, common in Europe, which can be placed in either of two holders. The walls are white everywhere with the exception of mottled gray marble window sills and slightly off-white/gray tiles for the back splash in the kitchen and the same tiles for the bathroom. I will take photos and post them the next time I download photos.

In addition to housing, food shopping and laundry are of substantial interest to Fulbright grantees trying to adapt to a new country and different culture. A major grocery chain in Slovenia is apparently Mercator and there is a small Mercator grocery about 250 meters from my apartment building on the other side of a major north-south road, Dunajska Street. (There is a larger, “suburban” style Mercator on Dunajska Street further toward the Center but it is a long walk or bus ride.) The Mercator across the street  is among a small cluster of coffee shops and cafes, including a Subway. (Both a McDonald’s and a Burger King are downtown near the bus and train station, which are close together.) My shopping revealed some interesting details. First, heads of common lettuce are packaged the same way in Europe as in the U.S., which involves very cheap, cellophane bags, twisted into a knot, held in place by cheap cellophane tape that refuses to break. You know what I am talking about. Second, lettuce and tomatoes are more expensive here; it is winter, of course, but still. Bananas are relatively inexpensive (about .15 euros each) as are apples (which were on sale and must be a local type I did not recognize) at about the same price. The very cheapest of the common European style breads is 1 euro. (The wrapper says it weighs 1 kg!) (If you want American style “Wonder” bread, often used as toast, it will cost you more.) Third, always be prepared for surprises. I bought a sausage roll of “Tirolska Salama” but, of course, this didn’t turn out to be exactly salami. It was closer to what Italians call mortadella but very soft and packaged as a roll. Finally, I bought a small bag (200 grams) of Cappuccino mix where all you do is add hot water, stir, and sweeten to taste.  Many companies make these and some are dreadful (Nescafe has some bad ones) but I bought the Mercator store brand; it is surprisingly good at 1.09 euros for about 10-12 cups. (Winter in Slovenia is characterized by constant precipitation – shades of Lacey, WA! – and so it is always raining except when it is snowing; this year is mild, I am told, so it will always be raining.) The Cappuccino mix makes it possible to fortify oneself with coffee before going out to – what else? – get a morning Cappuccino. (Cappuccinos typically cost 1.5 euros in many cafes; McDonald’s sells both a small (1.30 eueros) and large (1.5 euros) Cappuccino; café Americano (no milk/nor foam just a very small coffee, slightly watered down from expresso) is 1.2 euros at the café near the Mercator. Kava is the Slovenian word for coffee.)

During the pre-departure orientation for Fulbright grantees, held last July in Washington, D.C., those of us going to Slovenia were cautioned to insure our housing complex had laundry facilities as the concept of a “laundromat” has apparently not pierced Slovenian consciousness. As it turns out my building has a laundry (prinalcria, for those of you studying Slovenian!) with 5 washers and 3 dryers. Better yet, they are free; just bring soap.

More exciting developments – and photos! – to come. Next: Trying to find a New York Times International Edition.

The Journey Begins

Thanks for joining me! Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton

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Starting My Fulbright Blog

Today is the first day of my blog posts regarding my 2019 Fulbright Scholar Award to Slovenia where I will be affiliated with the Postgraduate School of the Research Centre of the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts (ZRC SAZU) in the capital, Ljubljana. You may read about the Research Centre here:

https://zrc.sazu.si/

I have been fortunate enough to receive a Fulbright Award due to the support of my friends and colleagues in Slovenia, Mitja Sardoc, senior research associate at the Educational Research Institute in Ljubljana, and Oto Luthar, director of ZRC SAZU. I am pleased to have the opportunity to work with them from February – May this coming year, 2019. You can read about the Educational Research Institute, Mitja Sardoc and Oto Luthar here:

http://www.pei.si/pei_english.aspx

http://www.pei.si/Sifranti/PersonalPage.aspx?id=42

https://ikss.zrc-sazu.si/en/sodelayavci/oto-luthar-en#y

Presently, I am in the preparatory phase of my Fulbright experience. I’ve completed the required tasks and obtained the formal approvals necessary for departing to Slovenia. I am engaged in making final decisions about my travel itinerary from the United States. I anticipate flying from the east coast to Europe on or about January 14, 2019. Under the American Carrier Act and as a recipient of government funds, I must fly on an American airline to my initial touchdown in Europe. I am contemplating flying from New York City’s JFK airport to Milan, Italy and then traveling over land to Ljubljana, Slovenia (about 4 1/2 hours by modern autobus). Between January 14, 2019 and February 1, 2019, I hope to travel the outskirts of the Mediterranean Sea around southern Italy, Greece, and Albania. 

Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is the country’s largest city with approximately 150,000 residents. It is centrally located.  You can find out more about Ljubljana here:

https://www.visitljubljana.com/en/visitors/

Slovenia is a small country in the Balkan region that was part of the former Yugoslavia.  It is about the size of the state of New Jersey although New Jersey has approximately 11 million people and Slovenia about 2 million. Slovenia is mountainous and heavily forested with among the highest percentages of forested land of any European country. It also has an abundance of fresh water lakes and streams but only 37 km of coastline on the Adriatic Sea between Italy, to the west, and Croatia, to the south. Slovenia also shares borders with Austria (to the north) and Hungary (to the east).  Other countries that formed a part of the former Yugoslavia, such Serbia and Bosnia-Herzegovina, are also nearby to the south. You can find out more about Slovenia here:

https://www.slovenia.info.en

You can see a map of Slovenia and southeastern Europe here:

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Slovenia/

https://www.brittanica.com/place/Slovenia

January 11, 2016

Thanks to those of you who having been following my blog experience. The last few weeks have been spent in preparation for my departure for Europe. I am scheduled to leave this coming Monday, January 14, 2019 to travel for 2 1/2 weeks before taking up my Fulbright position in Ljubljana, Slovenia on February 1, 2019. Briefly, I fly from New York City’s JFK Airport to Milan, Italy, arriving 7:45 a.m. on Tuesday, January 15. I will spend two days in Milan (where I have been before) and then take a train to Bologna, Italy where I have never visited. After two days in Bologna I will continue the train journey for eight hours to Bari, Italy, a port on the Adriatic Sea in the “bootheel” region and spend three days there. I will then fly to Athens, Greece and spend four days followed by two day trips to Corfu, an island near the northwestern Greek coast, and another two days in Tirana, Albania before traveling back to Milan. I will finish this little pre-Fulbright adventure by taking a bus for eight hours through Italy and Slovenia to reach Ljubljana.

January 13, 2016

One of the side adventures I have been organizing for my Fulbright experience consists of several possible trips to visit colleagues that Jeff Birkenstein and I have developed professional relationships with through our three edited volumes: American Writers in Exile (Salem Press/Grey House 2015); Social Justice and American Literature (Salem Press/Grey House 2017); and European Writers in Exile (Lexington Books 2018). Here are links to each:

https://salempress.com/critical_insights_writers_exile

https://rowman.com/ISBN/9781498560238/European-Writers-in-Exile

One of the first European colleagues that I contacted was Myrto Drizou, currently Assistant Professor of Western Language and Literature at Bogazici University in Istanbul, Turkey. Here is a link to a photo of Myrto.

https://www.google.com/search?q=myrto+drizou&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwif4NnQ6-vfAhWC8oMKHZcDBU4Q_AUIECgD&biw=1152&bih=626#imgrc=-E_YMg3Xk9K_eM:&spf=1547419867218

Myrto took her Ph.D. at the State University of New York at Buffalo and taught in the U.S. for a number of years before accepting her position in Turkey. She is an Edith Wharton scholar, contributed an essay on Edith Wharton for American Writers in Exile, and edited a book of essays on Edith Wharton. Here is a link to her c.v.:

http://boun.academia.edu/MyrtoDrizou/CurriculumVitae

I will be traveling to Istanbul the last week of Febrary to give a public lecture at Bogazici University and attend one of Myrto’s classes on late 19th century American literature.

From Istanbul I will travel to the University of Nicosia on Cyprus to see our colleague Rossitsa (“Rossie”) Artemis. Here is a link to her web page at the University:

https://www.unic.ac.cy/artemis-rossitsa/

Rossie completed her Ph.D. at the George Washington University, Washington, D.C. She is the author of a book on Ford Madox Ford’s The Good Soldier as well as a book on the stories of the unconscious in the works of Freud, Lacan, and Kristeva. I plan to be in Cyprus the first week of March, give public lectures at the University of Nicosia and the public university located there as well, and attend some classes.